Measure for drafting garments



(No Model.)

J. D. MGCANN.

MEASURE PoR DRAPTING GARMBNTS.

Patented Jan. 19,1886.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE- JAMES DWIGHT MCCANN, OF FALLS CITY, NEBRASKA.

MEASURE FOR vDRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No, 334,457, dated January 19, 1886.

Application tiled January 28, 1885. Serial No. 154,231.

To 'all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, J AMES D. MCCANN, of Falls City, in the county of Richardson and State of Nebraska, have invented a set of Improved Measures for Drafting, Designing, and Cutting Out Garments, of which the following is a specification. y

The invention consists in a set of instruments for the drafting of garments, furs, gloves, and mittens, as hereinafter described. A

- My instrumentsembody a new, useful, and improved method of measuring, drafting, or designing. They consist of a series of geometrically-scaled chest or bust measures, an angle-measure, and a former or scaled curve, to be used in thedrafting and construction of scaled diagrams. They serve as guides from which any and all kinds of full-sized garments or wearing-apparel may be drafted,V designed, cut, and made.

By my invention a consecutive set of scaled sizes may be drafted and cut, ranging from the small chest or bust measure (marked sixteen) to that of forty-seven inches, thus making thirty-two or more sizes which may be drafted or cut from the same diagram with the same mathematical exactness and with the same instruments.

Figure lis a plan view of the chest-scale. Fig. 2 is a similar View of the angle-scale, with thechest-scale pivoted at the vertex of its angle. Fig. 3 is a plan view, to show the joint in angle-measure, whereby the short arm may be folded down on the long one. Fig. 4 is a plan view of the curve-scale. Fig. 5 is a diagram illustrative of a garment as it is cut out. v Y

The following measurements are to be taken moderately tight, and preferably over some tight-fitting garment: First, girth of the neck; second, girth of the arm close to the shoulderjoint; third, girth of chest or bust close up underneath the arms; fourth, from the top of the spinal column down the back sharp onto the line ranging with the upper point of the hips; fifth, girth of waist close down onto the upper point of the hips; sixth, girth around over the largest part ofthe hips; seventh, length of arm from upper point of the shoulder roundl over the elbow to the wrist, marking figures at elbow and wrist. (arm to be held in an easy bent positiom) eighth, girth of sleeve at elbow and (No model.)

at the wrist; ninth, the distance across the back' between the outer circles of the armholes; tenth, the distance from the under side seam beneath the arm to the center of the chest orV length of sleeve from the upper point of the shoulder around over the elbow to the wrist; fifth, girth of sleeve at elbow and wrist; sixth, the distance across the back between the outer circles of the armholes; seventh, the distance from the side seam beneath the arm to the center of the chest or bust in front.

The above seven measurements will give all the data necessary to make any changes required in the drafting of the body of any garment, or the body o f any and all wearing-aparel. p In the application of my method of drafting, designing, or making of diagrams for wearingapparel there are three essential instruments required, which are of the following construction and dimensions:

In Figure l of the drawings, A represents the chest or bust measure or scale, which runs or ranges in consecutive numbers, from sixteen inches to that of forty-seven inches, representing the number of inches around the chest or bust of a person.

rIhe chest-measure is made in the following gradation of scales: rllhe chest measure or scale number 30 is taken as the base or dividingline between the manand the youth, maid or miss, and is the true English standard inch and foot measure, and all prepared diagrams are preferably scaled upon this base or dividing line. The twelve inches of the foot are called spaces, which are subdivided into ten equal parts or tenths.

The chest-measurements of persons generally vary from about thirty to forty-seven inches; hence it. is most convenient to have about eighteen straight measures like that shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings.

ICO

, inches long.

The abovesaid chest measures or scales may be made of wood, flexible tape, steel, vulcanized rubber, or any other material which will answer the purpose for which they are used. The design of their width is threei'ourths of an inch, und the scales printed upon the same will determine their length.

In Fig. 2 of the drawings, B represents the angle-measure. The long arm b of said angle is one and one-fourth inch wide by twenty lheshort arm b of the sameis one inch wide by twelve inches long. The thickness ot' said angle is from one-eighth to one-fourth ofan inch. ,30th sides ofthearms are spaced oi'i" into one-inch spaces upon the outer margin, and the inch-spaces to be subdivided into ten equal spaces, the spacing to be made both ways trom the vertex of the angle, the two arms being connected by a circular hinge, B, whichV enables the short arm ot' the angle to be folded down evenly upon the long arm. A spring-catch, e, will rest against the edge of the inner orouter circle of the hinge, which is scaled and properly notched, so that the short arm ofthe angle maybe fixed at any given angle to the long arm.

ln Fig. 3 is a viewot the hinge at the junction of the arms of the angle-measure, the upper and outer plate ot' hinge being cutaway at the circle shown. A piece is made to fit the same, neatly notched and scaled upon onehalf ol the edge ofthe saine. The said piece is then riveted upon the proper side of' the tongue of the short angle of said square, so

that it will nicely fit up into the cut-away cir! cle, and a screw is placed in the center at a to fasten the parts of hinge together. When the short arm b is moved to or from the long arm b, the notched and scaled circle d turns around in the cut-away circle on the long arm b. Near the edge of the cut-away circle is a small catch-spring, c, which catches in the notches of circle d d and rmly fastens the same at any given angle. Gatch-springf is fastened at c at thejunetion of arms b b,with the screw f/ to receive and hold in place scale A. Two more like springs are used to catch and hold scale A, one being placed in each arm ot' the angle-measure at a suitable distance, so as to hold said scale.

In Fig. 4 of the drawings C represents the curved scale, which is so constructed in curves and circles that when used in conjunction with the chest and angle measure the true circles and natural curves required to secure a perfectly-fitting garment may be easily and readily obtained. The curve-scale is a fraction over twenty-three inches long and 0ne eighth of an inch in thickness, the large end havinga maximum width of about five inches, and the small one a width of about three and three-eighths of an inch. Said curved scale may be made of wood, vulcanized rubber, or any other suitable material. The outer margin (necessary to be used) of said former is scaled or divided into one-inch spaces, and said one-inch spaces are subdivided into ten equal parts, being the tenth part of au inch of the English standard measurement, but may be spaced or scaled in any other known or dcvised manner. A set of letters is placed upon both sides of said curved scale, two inches apart. The purpose of these letters is to de termine what side, special, or particular part ot' the edge of said curved scale is to be used in drafting the article of wearingapparel. As a guide, and to guard against any possible mistake, the same class of letters as used upon said curved scale is also placed upon the diagrams, so that the user or drafter has only to observe the letters upon the diagram and former and their relative positions, so as to determine the side and particular part of the edge of the former which is to be used. The said curved scale is made in two pieces jointed together in the narrowest place for the convenience ot storage and carriage. It is easily and quickly jointed together and also unjointed.

In Fig. 5 of the drawings is a sample diagram. In order to draft it i proceed as fol lowsz- First. Place the anglenneasure upon the pa* per or material upon which the diagram is to be drafted,with the outer edge ofthe long arm even with the edge of material next to you, and the short arm away from you, so as to rest upon the paper or goods. Draw a line along the outer edge of both arms of the angle-measure. The line along the long arm is thevertical line and that ofthe` short almthe parallel line. At a right angle to the vertical line and all other guidelines must be drawn two parallel base-lines, from which all measurements are to be taken.

Second. Select chest measure or scale 30 and place the same in the catch-springs on the long arm of the angle-measure, with the end on which space one is marked at the vertex of the angles and even with the long arm b. Vith the square evcn with the before-said marked lines, proceed to mark the required spaces down the vertical line as follows: Make a mark at the spaces designated. Space 1i determines the upper shoulder-line. Space 2 determines the outer curve or circle of the neck. Space 3lv determines the lower point of neck-curve. The above three spaces given are all determined by the girth of the neck. Measure down 6,3U spaces, which is opposite the outer front curve of the arm-circle. Mark down 9 spaces, which is the chest or bust line passing close underneath the arms. The last two spaces are governed by the girth of the arm close to the shoulder. Mark 9% spaces, which determines the top of the under arm seam. Mark down 12T spaces, which determines the upper point of the front side dart. Mark space ll, which gives waist-line as lper measurement down the back. Mark 19t, which is determined by measurement over the hips. Mark 2721-, which gives full length of back part of skirt. Mark 28, which gives the lower point ofthe front of the skirt. Move the IOO IIO

. front side dart lower circle of skirt.

chest measure or scale from the long arm ontothe short arm of the angle-measure. Fasten the scale in the catch-springs upon the said angle. Mark out on the upper base-1ine 3% spaces. Move down to marked space 1%, keeping the long angle of the square always even with the vertical line. Mark out 9% spaces to point of shoulder-line, drawing a guide-line back to the vertical or base line, as must be done with all guide-lines. Move to 2%. Mark out three spaces. This gives the outer circle of the neck. Move down to 6%. Mark out 8%. Move down to 9. Mark out 10% spaces. This is the chest or bust measure or scale-line. Move down to 9%. Mark out 1l spaces, which gives the top of the under arm side seam. Move down to 12%. Mark out and 5%, which gives the curve of the front edge and top of the front side dart. Move to 15%. Mark out Llf, 7%, and 11, which gives waist-line front and side dart curves. Move to 19. Mark out 5%, 7%, and l2 spaces, giving front and front side dart curves and curve of swell over the hip. Move down to 2792. Mark out 13% spaces as Width of skirt. Move to 28. Mark out 5% and 7 spaces, which gives the lower curve of To complete the draft, take former or scaled curve and obtain therequired circles and curves (as per diagram) by noticing the given letters on the diagram and upon the former, which will designate the proper side and part of the said former to use.

The foregoing is the draft of one side ofthe front of a ladys walking-jacket. Where two pieces of the same dimensions are required,

the goods are doubled and both pieces are cut at once. The necessary seam cloth is allowed in the construction of all diagrams.

An indefinite number and variety of diagrams may be constructed from which any and all kinds of' Wearing-apparel may be drafted and cut upon the same principle by following the directions accompanying each one.

One or more dashes placed parallel with any given line on the diagrams denote straight lines drawn with the straight-edge.

Stars placed upon the margin of separate pieces or parts of the drafted diagrams determine the edges that are to be joined t0- gether in making up the garment.

Having thus described all that is necessary to a full understanding of my invention,what I consider to be new, and desire to protect by Letters Patent, is-

A tailors measure, C, reversely curved at its opposite ends, marked and notated with a gure for every inch-space near its margin, having a letter over every other figure, and having-more or less of the inch-spaces subdivided into tenths, as and for the purpose described..

JAMES DWIGHT MCCANN.

Vitnessesz- E. D. SToUGHT'oN, O. D. MCCANN. 

